Yakuza 6's Puyo Puyo completion comes down to two separate jobs: win thirty matches overall, and beat all ten different rivals. The thirty wins can be spread across attempts. Th…

Yakuza 6's Puyo Puyo completion comes down to two separate jobs: win thirty matches overall, and beat all ten different rivals. The thirty wins can be spread across attempts. The difficult rivals require you to keep a single run alive long enough for them to enter the opponent pool. That distinction matters. Winning five matches, losing, and repeating that six times gets you the thirty-win Award. It won't bring out the whole roster. Play at Club SEGA on Nakamichi Street. If you only want all trophies or achievements, playing Puyo Puyo contributes to the arcade participation trophy, and you can get your hundred Completion List entries elsewhere. This is for anyone who wants every Award checked off. The rival checklist is Ringo, Maguro, Amitie, Arle & Carbuncle, Suketoudara, Risukuma, Klug, Sig, Witch, and Rulue. Arle & Carbuncle count as one opponent. The pool expands as you survive: - From the start: Ringo, Maguro, Amitie, Arle & Carbuncle, and Suketoudara. - After five consecutive wins: Risukuma becomes eligible. - After ten: Klug. - After fifteen: Sig. - After twenty: Witch. - After twenty-five: Rulue. These are eligibility thresholds, not a fixed boss schedule. Rulue is not guaranteed to be your next opponent after win twenty-five. Repeats are normal, so keep the run going until the missing rival actually appears and you beat them. A loss means climbing through the thresholds again on the next attempt. Use a character you've already defeated when chasing the remaining names. The game does not normally give you a mirror match, so selecting somebody you still need to face works against you. Once Risukuma is checked off, choosing him is also a way to remove an awkward opponent from that run's pool. Before chasing a long streak, get comfortable with the board. Groups of at least four matching Puyos clear when they touch horizontally or vertically. Diagonal contact doesn't count. A falling pair separates if one half has farther to fall. Clearing a group removes its support and makes everything above it fall too. A chain is what happens when that fall creates another clear automatically. Clearing red, then placing another pair and clearing blue, is two separate attacks. Clearing red and making blue fall into a group of four without another placement is a two-chain. That second version is what you want to build around. For a simple practice setup, stack three green Puyos vertically in one column. In the column immediately to their right, stack three red Puyos, then put a green above those reds. Add another red beside the bottom red group. The red group clears first, the suspended green falls beside the three greens, and those clear second. Once that makes sense, add another supported group above the next link rather than trying to memorize an enormous pattern immediately. Look at the upcoming pair while the current one falls. Decide where both colors are going. A placement that gives you one useful color but buries the trigger for your existing chain can make the whole board worse. The common shortcut is the three-column tower method. Number the columns one through six from left to right. Build most of the board in columns four, five, and six, leaving the third column's red X clear. That X is the danger point. A tall stack on the far right is survivable; blocking the spawn area is what ends the run. Try to keep three colors together in the right-hand pile and put the fourth color toward the left. When a pair contains one color for each side, rotate it so the unwanted half doesn't cap a group you need to reach. Leave yourself a way to clear near the base of the tower. Once it is built, trigger the lower groups and let the falling Puyos connect into more clears. This method trades careful chain construction for a chance at a large cascade. It is useful, but it isn't an automatic win. A pile with no accessible trigger is just a pile. If the opponent is already attacking, start clearing before the right side is packed to the ceiling. The next improvement is to stop firing every small clear immediately. Watch the garbage warning above your board and the opponent's chain. Your own attack can offset incoming garbage before the remainder lands. If you've got a usable chain ready, trigger it in time to answer the attack rather than watching the warning fill up while you wait for a perfect color. Don't wait forever either. A modest chain that clears space and counters an attack is better than a theoretical huge chain buried under garbage. Once gray Puyos land, clear colored groups touching them to dig back down. Work toward your buried trigger and keep the third column from filling. Three habits make the long attempts more manageable: - Keep the spawn column low enough to survive a bad drop. - Build an accessible trigger before adding height. - Send an attack when it will protect your board or finish the opponent, rather than delaying for one extra link every time. If you keep losing before ten wins, practice making repeatable two- and three-chains first. If you reach twenty regularly but lose before Rulue appears, the bigger issue is usually surviving awkward boards and incoming garbage, not learning an even larger opening. The Awards track five rivals, all ten rivals, and ten, twenty, and thirty total wins. Check the actual rival list after an attempt and save your progress back in Kamurocho. You don't need all ten victories in the same run, but you do need another long streak whenever one of the late rivals is still missing. Keep playing once that rival's threshold is reached. Quitting there only throws away the part of the attempt you worked hardest to reach.